As big fans of Yohji Yamamoto, with his unflinching view of fashion and dedication to a craft that he has truly mastered, it is hard to bring criticism into play. The collection today had some brilliant moments, and overall was successful in pushing the Yamamoto man forward, but some of the clothes were hard to understand. The prints were incredible, with full color geisha girls and pin-ups cavorting in floral backdrops and set off against animal prints. What could be more masculine than a floor-length silk skirt with a traditional Japanese wood-block print on a leopard jacquard — absolutely brilliant.
And then of course, the images of Yamamoto himself smiling and smoking printed on shirting and outerwear, are sure to be big commercial hits. Yamamoto is after all a true rock star. All of the more gender-fluid forms were great and an exciting continuation of the Yamamoto canon, but before them there were some leather pieces that had little relevance to the collection, and a section of loose tailoring with appliquéd zips, an uncharacteristically under-explored theme, that didn’t really need to be there. And although it was exciting to see Yohji experimenting with so much saturated print, and fluid form, the whole thing felt a little disjointed. But let’s not let small quibbles bring down an otherwise good collection.