Peaceful Military at Yohji Yamamoto

The light was searingly bright in the Yohji Yamamoto space, as the ceiling had been modified to include hundreds of white strip lights. It was like gallery lighting for visitors on Adderall — a visual palate cleanser.

Yamamoto was clearly in the mood for change, with a stricter, more tailored silhouette than in recent outings — less drapery, harder lines, and overt opulence. Silver and gold embroidery showcasing wild animals dripped from the garments, in delicate wisps, complemented by gold chains falling from multiple buttons. There was a higher focus on decoration than function, and we loved it.

The application of roughly tied leather cords and strips was particularly wonderful, masterfully mimicking military frogging. The deft handling of the military theme overall was both poetic and peaceful — Yamamoto’s soldier boys were simply dressed for the part, the violence was in the past, and their buttons were highly polished, ready for parade.