Season after season, Alexandre Herchcovitch reinvents his look completely, totally regardless of industry whims and trends. For spring, there was a heavy Boy George vibe, but the collection was hardly a simple ’80s redux.

The decade showed up in checkerboard prints and boisterous patterns (letters, hearts), Working Girl shapes and a primary palette, and of course in the oversized bowlers and Culture Club soundtrack. But it was tempered through Herchcovitch’s eye, touches like his expert collaging of fabrics and experiments with proportion. The result was a collection that captured the exuberance of the decade, while elevating it to a sophisticated, po-mo style.

For a designer like Herchcovitch, there runs the risk that a cohesive meditation on a theme can verge on one-note. But take any of these pieces away from the runway, the Crayola-yellow power jumpsuit for instance, and the reference slips away, allowing it to stand completely on its own. And that is what Herchcovitch does so well, season after season.