Jaunty, that nearly forgotten adjective, is really the only way to describe Junya Watanabe’s menswear for spring. Watanabe went French preppie and offered a plethora of horizontal stripes inspired by that upbeat classic: the French sailor’s top.

A nipped-waist, double-breasted blazer in gray cotton chambray with outstanding white buttons was teamed with a wide-stripe T-shirt and wide white trousers and pristine white bucks. Cotton newsboy caps, rolled pant cuffs, deck shoes and nautical parkas were in abundance, but the real interest was the horizontal stripes, which came wide and two-toned on shirts and blazers for old-school rugby panache.

Watanabe also explored classics like the red gingham check shirt worn with a royal blue patch-pocket blazer and cream trousers, the kind of combo a 50s’ gent would wear to take his girl out for an afternoon guinguette dance on the Marne.