The title given to today’s Dior Homme show, Latenight Summer, seemed to refer more to the English-adopted French term soirée, than any late-night summer party we’ve been to. A parade of immaculate, painfully beautiful boys showed off artistic director Kris Van Assche’s impeccable tailoring skills. But, he was quick to point out that it wasn’t all down to him, as the collection was a heartfelt celebration of the fantastic Christian Dior atelier team.
The opening look was so cinched at the waist it became a masculine version of Christian Dior’s celebrated iconic Bar jacket. It was worn with nothing underneath — it would have been difficult to fit anything under it with that kind of razor sharp tailoring — and a long trailing ribbon scarf with the word ATELIER embroidered on it. It really set the bar for the rest of the collection.
The word atelier popped up again and again, alongside the atelier address in ribbons, and in allover prints made from what looked like appliquéd ribboning. Shorts were so micro that they barely made it out from under the jackets they were worn with, and we were shown some of the best trainers to ever grace the catwalk at Dior Homme. The invitation featured a topsy-turvy basketball logo that appeared throughout the collection in jerseys, shorts, wonderfully voluminous bomber jackets, and finally usurped the tailoring itself.
The beloved hybrid garments that Van Assche is so renowned for were particularly inventive, and our personal favorite, a black tailored jacket with Bordeaux bomber sleeves that had a cropped bomber back layered over the back of the jacket’s back was so perfectly executed we had to double-take to realize it wasn’t in fact two garments.