Following her triumphant takeover of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, it seemed that Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo was ready to party and let her hair down at today’s Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show.
The mood was calm beforehand, with guests sat on four sides around a square space. Then the music began to blare and multi-colored spotlights floating hypnotically around the floor. The boys marched and paced the space six at a time, circling each other in constant motion like sharks, only briefly pausing for photographers before going about their own private disco. It was an electric experience, with everyone clearly having a whale of a time.
The collection was wild — lashings of lurex, sequins, fun fur, animal print, brocades, and the most incredible glitter hair by hair artist Julien d’Ys. It was an exercise in turning tailoring upside down. Every exit was worn with a tailored jacket with such extraordinary embellishment and fabrication that it revolutionized its form. It was the most punk tailoring we’ve seen since the Teddy Boys of Kings Road. Embellishment focused around the sides of the garments, like re-invented vests, with some garments featuring huge cut-out lace shoes. Bottoms were, for the most part fluid, easy to dance in, like basketball shorts — our favorites came in slinky metallic sequins.
It wasn’t for the faint-hearted, but then fashion this extraordinary rarely is. Trust Kawakubo to surprise us again with a riotous, joyous, celebratory kick in the teeth — absolutely brilliant.