The heat sure was all over Paris today, with sweaty editors fanning madly at the shows. But the kind of heat one can expect from such a hyped brand as Y/Project couldn’t be felt at its spring 2018 show.

Interestingly, designer Glenn Martens showed a fascination with formal men’s tailoring, which he shares with many of his counterparts, including Demna Gvasalia and Martine Rose. Like them, he offered his suits in roomy, 80s-like, shoulder-padded versions. Oversized outerwear in sandy hues and loose pants tapered around tight ankles were other highlights.

The show’s convoluted styling often did it a disservice, preventing it from sending out a clear message — such as a roomy pale pink dress was worn with a salmon shirt, plus wide-cuffed, ankle-baring tight jeans with a rippling fly, worn over suede shoes.

Which is a pity, since broken down, many of the pieces had merit: beautiful, preppy herringbone patterned V-neck sweaters, or arresting ruched sportswear. The most enticing look ended up being a simple black T-shirt worn with high-waisted pants and a belt tied askew, with just a thin gold chain as decoration.