Just like his men’s outing in January, Rick Owens’ show today was titled Glitter. If Glitter 1 reinterpreted the 1970s, this time around he pondered the “glitter of civilization,” likening runway shows to contemporary ceremonies, and wondering how they could be used in the most positive way.
Existential questioning aside, the beautiful collection proposed the same exquisite sculptural outerwear, particularly asymmetrical coats in painted canvas that wrapped around the body like a tornado, as well as mammoth zippered side pouches. Tops also had elongated, look-Ma-no-hands sleeves.
Underneath those soft sculptures, the models wore floor-length slit dresses in silk duchesse. On their feet were stretch sock runners, which Owens described as his version of opera gloves. The graphic feel of the collection was heightened by the outstanding headgear, towering and geometric metallic structures that were almost comically covered with sweatshirt sleeves, in one instance emulating rabbit ears.
“Arte Povera gowns in Michael Heizer’s city,” explained Owens in the program notes. The high-low quote aptly summarizes the collection, and the entire oeuvre of Rick Owens, the ultimate modern couturier.