Gaudy & Nice: Saint Laurent Spring 2017

If some of the styles in Anthony Vaccarello’s debut for Saint Laurent looked dated, that was the point. He took Monsieur’s evolving friendship with Paloma Picasso as his inspiration, giving it a contemporary twist.

In the couturier’s hands, the golden child and a style icon in her own right — who first raised eyebrows wearing flea-market garb and who lent her penchant for provocation to Saint Laurent’s Scandal collection of 1972 — came to epitomize the big-shouldered, excess-oozing 80s.

Vaccarello recreated this cheeky blend of glamour and kitsch in the house’s first outing since the departure of Hedi Slimane, from whom the collection, too, seemed to draw.

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