Exquisite Urchins: Maison Margiela Couture Fall 2016

For couture, John Galliano again spliced Maison Margiela’s yen for ironic minimalism with his own penchant for eccentric extremism — anonymity with personality.

Their faces smeared with bold color, perhaps a reference to Galliano’s clubland origins, his exquisite urchins were decked out in all manner of seemingly found objects and street detritus. They wore a clear plastic poncho, toe-cleft yellow flood boots, leather jackets as arm floaties, other jackets worn upside down, piles of buttons, and is that a dress made out of green fish nets?

One dress had the word ‘revolution’ spelled out across the front, possibly a reference to the political chaos erupting around the world. More likely, however, it’s a nod to Galliano’s own past; specifically, his seminal 1984 Central Saint Martins graduate collection, Les Inroyables, in which he romanticized the radical ideals and the bold garb of French revolutionaries. Nowadays those rebels are happy just to be regrammed and retweeted.

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