Following the appointment of Bouchra Jarrar as the new womenswear artistic director, and Lucas Ossendrijver celebrating his tenth anniversary on the men’s side, it is no surprise that all eyes were on Lanvin’s men’s show today. Jarrar sat front row with her family, eager to show her support, in another change in venue, this time in the cavernous industrial contemporary-art mecca Palais de Tokyo.
The show opened to the sound of German cult industrialists Einstürzende Neubaten’s Wo Sind Meine Schuhe? (Where are my shoes?), a question many of these Lanvin boys may well ask themselves after a particularly hedonistic night out. And, it is this element of cool masculine youth that persists in Ossendrijver’s menswear vision after the departure of Alber Elbaz at the end of last year. His boys were the kind of boys you wanted to hang out with, all effortless layers, and impeccable style. Free flyaway hair and nonchalant disregard for wardrobe rules, as in vertical stripes over horizontal stripes, shirts open all the way to the waist, loose tailoring worn with tees and mis-buttoned shirts, and fantastic patterned socks that peeked out from underneath trousers that looked as though they were covered in marijuana leaves.
The designer is not the type to make his references transparent or easily readable, but there certainly is a new Lanvin boy on the block and he’s young and effortless, loves a music festival, and is probably the coolest boy in class.