Translating Ann Demeulemeester’s dark and poetic message for a new generation is Sébastien Meunier’s task at the house the cult namesake designer left two years ago.

The appealing spiderweb knits, loose striped pants, somber soft tailoring, and feather jewelry were faithful to the house’s heritage, to which the French designer added his own erotic sensibility. The models’ torsos were visible through open jackets or sheer tops, and the silhouette, ending with military leather boots, despite its looseness, outlined the male figure.

The flying panels sporting animal drawings on tops seemed more hit-or-miss, but so far Meunier’s more user-friendly approach at the house has produced rather fine moments.