For spring 2017, Maison Margiela had the ambitious goal to “define the role of man in today’s society, his uniform, his armor, and the tactile underpinnings of his sartorial wardrobe.” This partly translated into soft tailoring with visible basting stitches, worn with brogues that morphed into sandals at the back.

But as evidenced in its terrific show last January, the brand scores best when it goes terminally hip. As it did here with silk shirt and pants with scarf-like prints, detachable shorts-overalls baring the back, a hybrid of shorts-cum-skirt worn with cropped jackets and ankle boots, bringing a welcome dose of sexiness to the collection.

Asymmetrical sweaters and half-jackets exposing the inner workings of the garment recalled the deconstructionist roots of a brand whose heritage is still fueling the tanks of some of today’s hottest fashion houses.