Moody Hues: Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Spring 2017

The staff at Yohji wore the best uniform today, a long line (black of course) shirt split up the sides with the brand name emblazoned on the back and the show date and address. They were perfect Yamamoto, a wry take on modern fashion times.

There is something magical about where the house is right now, as its codes are so on trend. Yamamoto hasn’t changed, and he’s found himself with his effortless voluminous forms, and oversize global deconstructed aesthetic at the forefront. Even his love of street-casting is on trend, making all the elements fall into place and enabling us to sit back and watch Yohji be Yohji.

His confidence is infectious, and his boys looked us in the eye almost confrontationally, challenging us to find fault. Their heads were tied in bandage strips and hands wrapped like they were about to slip on the gloves. It was a masterclass in drapery and layering, with perfect soft tailoring, and long line shirting, and tiny appliqué bells that rang out as they walked. The color palette was classic menswear for the most part, with naturals, khaki, navy, and of course black giving way to deep violet and flashes of crimson. A nod to military was there in the patched pockets and the boiler suit, a familiar sight on the Yamamoto runway.

With total sartorial confidence, he also reveals his sense of humor more and more each season, referencing himself in both words and images, and even playing parts of the soundtrack himself on his beloved guitar. This season the final coats featured hand drawn portraits of the man himself with phrases like ‘Wait Until Dark’ and ‘Yohji for Hire’, with one confusingly stating ‘I Am a Slump’ – which must have been a joke, as he goes from strength to strength.

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