Dark Energy: Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2016

Things are never that simple at a Yohji Yamamoto collection, despite the austere simplicity of the clothes. With his enduring love affair with the color black and its possibilities, it was no surprise when he sent out a closing statement like “B I WILL BE BACK SOON A.”

The repeated motif of the dropped sleeve felt modern, and Yamamoto’s meditative, methodical, repetitive approach to such a deceptively complex part of the garment was fascinating. The cleanliness overall felt fresh too, with geometric detailing from squared-off necklines and straps to horizontal embroideries that finished off in trailing threads.

The applications were mostly tonal, with standout leather-like sections that seemed to fade into wools, and splattered black-on-black paint that looked like oil slicked onto the fabric. There was a lightness to the whole collection for a winter offering, which looked to be composed of summer wools, and had moments of nudity both frontal and rear, which may have been another verse in Yamamoto’s warning ode to climate change.

It is a marvel to watch the story of Yamamoto unfold and develop each season in its own inimitable way. He is one of the few true master craftsmen still on the fashion calendar. The five final looks came out together, long black duster coats covered in white ambiguous statement texts, declaring such things as “CRIME? STOP ME BEFORE I FUCK AGAIN.” We will never stop you.

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