Meant to evoke Washington Square Park almost a century ago, between the wars, Thom Browne reconstructed a serene park setting inside a white-cube Chelsea gallery, complete with birch trees, traces of snowflakes on a dirt path, and a central post clock.
After two male models — Browne is predominantly a men’s designer — strode through the park, one with a dog-shaped bag on a leash and wheels, his women came out. They alternated between flappery and mensy, either in exaggerated feminine pieces or in dapper suit and ties borrowed from the male wardrobe. As such, comparisons to Chanel were unavoidable.
However, nothing is very straightforward in Browne’s universe, so those suits were stitched into the sides of other garments and those ties sculpted around the models’ faces to look windswept, thereby becoming headpieces by Stephen Jones. It was all, as usual, so very sublime.