There was a strange feeling in the air at Lanvin this morning, despite the business-as-usual coffee and cookies on offer. This year, menswear artistic director Lucas Ossendrijver celebrates his tenth anniversary at the house, but today marked the first time he walked out alone for his bow, without Alber Elbaz. When Lanvin fired its beloved creative director last October, it came as a huge surprise to everyone in the industry, leaving Lanvin’s staff in an uproar and demanding answers. After today’s show, however, it seems a solo Ossendrijver could very well signal a new chapter for Lanvin men’s.

The freedom he now has came through in the collection, with less romance and a more casual rock ’n’ roll approach. Think free-flowing hair and bare chests. There were more great coats than we’ve seen most anywhere else this season, and the sneakers looked like they’d been custom-spraypainted backstage, a youthful rebellious touch that captured the devil-may-care attitude perfectly. 

After the show, Ossendrijver said of the new venue, a departure from the regular Beaux-Arts de Paris space, “It’s very narrow, the lights are low, because I wanted people almost to touch the clothes and then be touched by the clothes.” He spoke of a new sensuality to the Lanvin man, and his desire to work with boys that had a rougher feel, and more life experience than usual. “I want men that have a little more experience, it’s more sensual to me.” If the applause was anything to go by, his new sensuality proved a success.