Greater Paris: Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall 2016

The Louis Vuitton space in Parc Andre Citroen was transformed this season, with a walled box built inside of the towering Provost glass house that is home to their runway each season. This blocking of the light and demarcation of the space enabled menswear creative director Kim Jones to house a poetic installation by Japanese artist Shinji Ohmaki, called Liminal Air Space-Time, which consisted of a lightweight fabric delicately undulating across the ceiling with carefully controlled fans. The effect was stunning, with Shinji claiming, “This work expresses the breaking down of existing values and creating anew” — a fitting statement for Jones’ show, which he himself titled Future Heritage.

It was refreshing for us to have Jones on home ground, so to speak, looking backwards, going forwards, and focusing on Paris. The quintessential Vuitton traveler was taking a break from global wanderlust to explore his own city. And this collection was certainly city-ready, opening with exquisite suiting and luxurious shearling trenches, all paired with mini-trunks in hand. Because when you’re staying at home you have less to lug around, but you still need a Vuitton trunk to hold your camera. Archive luggage stamps were blown up, lasered into calfskin, and applied in reflective inks. Utilitarian pockets, tabs, and loops allowed our traveler to hold all he needs to traverse the city, in a palette inspired by the brick and mortar of Paris itself — graphite, grays, French navy, and the delicately named Tuileries laurel.

With a slow pulsating beat and the Ohmaki installation framing the show, there was a strange sensation of time slowing down, allowing us to lean back and take in the careful craftsmanship. All of this introspection made for a perfect addition to the future heritage of the Vuitton brand that Jones is so nicely handling.

Leave a comment