Kicking off all of men’s week (London, Milan, Paris, and finally New York), nimble newbie Craig Green seemed torn between two impulses: a need for protection and a desire for fetish.

On the one hand, he presented allover padding, blankie-style looks, oodles of belts and straps, and hoods gathered around the face like swaddled children. But on the other hand, this sense of safety was followed by voluminous, large-scale showpieces that appeared to be corsets gone wild, their lacing loosened and buttons undone.

Bags were so large they had to be dragged down the runway, while military-inspired pieces in army green and desert shades did little to solve the riddle. Is Green espousing a defensive posture or kink appeal?