Like the clothes on the runway, the beauty of Hood By Air’s ss16 collection was an unsettling mix of horror show and baby doll. Snarling toothy mouthpieces, barrettes, and rhinestones spelling out gender-provocative words like “top” and “coy” combined to crypto-psycho effect.

“With HBA collections,” make-up artist Inge Grognard told Hint, “there is always something about gender. They are not only related to men or women, but suit both. The same goes for the make-up. There are notions of drag, trans, and gender, but it’s the mix of how we do it that makes it fresh and now. The words we used are suggestive, slang in a way. Knowing about the origin of HBA, this is a kind of logical, no?”