Undercover’s Jun Takahashi brought together a motley bunch of references for spring: royalty (as in ruffs), playing cards (with an emphasis on the joker), battle-ready gear (bombers, parachute straps, camo), the Rolling Stones (he printed their cameos on various pieces), and an all-around old-fashioned Britishness (think Sherlock Holmes) — all of it deconstructed and pieced together in sundry ways.

What the message is isn’t exactly clear. Nonetheless it felt poignant and certainly well-tailored. And it’s refreshing that Takahashi seems as fascinated by Britain as the Brits — in fact, everyone — are by Japan.