For the Spanish house of Loewe, Jonathan Anderson was in an experimental mood — clearly. See-through pants resembling clear plastic wrap featured in the first series of looks; shards of mirror glass were arranged in clusters, echoed in bunches of shiny metallic fringe; paper was superimposed onto cotton and one leather dress was stamped with an actual Juncus plant. The signature Puzzle bag, too, now comes n rubber.

Leather was made to look like silver croc, while real croc was introduced elsewhere. But it was suede, the label’s longstanding trademark, that stole the show. The material appeared in many a novel application, usually head-to-toe, most dramatically as a robe dress and a pale yellow bomber and pant combo.