Going East: Thom Browne Men’s Spring 2016

Over the years, Thom Browne has given modeling new meaning, stretching his boys’ acting skills to their limit. The American designer’s spring outing was no different. Guest were greeted in a serene Japanese garden, where expressionless models had been instructed to stand sentinel, hands clutching a bamboo staff like a samurai sword. They wore sumptuous kimonos, conical hats, elevated wood geta, round sunglasses, and black lipstick.

What they were guarding is unclear, but their wait came to an end when four men in all-gray geisha robes freed them, revealing impressive, painstakingly hand-pieced gray suits adorned with embroidered frescos of pastoral Japanese scenes — flora, fauna, fans, fishermen, Fuji, and so on. The craftsmanship was majestic, and the designer moved forward by drawing a looser silhouette. While the show was a bit one-note, it was a fitting end to the season, confirming a craze for Asia that started in London and percolated through Paris.

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