Maison Margiela is an interesting case study. Here is a cult fashion house whose elusive founder is retired, replaced by John Galliano, a designer with a glorious past and a maximalist aesthetic that seems at odds with the brand’s philosophy of deconstruction. To complicate matters, that philosophy is enjoying a revival at other labels, notably the much talked-about Vêtements.
Galliano made his return to ready-to-wear in March, and, as the spring collection shown today was conceived by a creative team, he has yet to make his mark on men’s. The British designer’s input won’t be visible before next year, according to a spokesperson for the house.
As the show was held in a rundown underground train depot, one expected some grit. Instead, the collection was rather uneventful, focusing on user-friendly clothes with a rock-and-roll undercurrent (studs on black jackets and boots). The trenchcoats and elongated tuxedo jackets looked well-cut and the artsy sleeveless tops and a pair of pants with an apron effect stood out. But it seemed like a warm-up while awaiting John Galliano.