Late last week, Christopher Kane opened his first store — on London’s Mount Street — and celebrated it today with a bacchanalia-like fall show. Specifically, the last section featured naked, writhing, nipple-pinching human figures in a kind of love-in, patched together (not printed) to form colorful dresses and tops along the lines of the Austrian artist Egon Schiele’s twisted, sexualized portraits from a century ago.
Except for the oddly dangling feet, these pieces were delightfully provocative and suggestively droll. Otherwise the show was fairly vanilla. Unrelated elements — geometric prints, statement frills, velvet tuxedos, and a pretty great electric zigzag motif — were groped at, but ultimately lacked the orgiastic cohesion of those debauched final looks.