The Proenza Schouler boys like to toss around hefty inspirations — for fall it’s mid-century American abstract expressionism — but ultimately their passion is fabric innovation. So while they replaced the primal, floor-length fringe of spring (and pre-fall) with a spontaneous, undone effect reminiscent of Helen Frankenthaler’s bold color splashes or Mark Rothko’s perfectly imperfect paintings, fabrics remained the duo’s driving force. And they were just as hefty.
Along with handcrafted tweeds and bouclé, many of the initial pieces were felted out of a heavy-duty crepe, the kind used in men’s suiting, here bonded with layers of chiffon. Elsewhere, body-con bandage and all-over sequin dresses — seriously, enormous piles of sequins — with strategic cutouts stole the show. Other standouts were sumptuous astrakhan-lined pony skirts and dresses, a cowbell on the soundtrack providing subliminal reinforcement.
Shoes made entirely out of fabric (as in no hardware) and knotted just so rounded out the carefully studied insouciance of the collection, the kind that keeps those elusive yet very real ‘cool girls’ galloping back for more. This time they’ll no doubt scoop up the single men’s look for themselves, sparkly see-through separates so obviously draped on a male model to shamelessly tease the audience. It worked.
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