Today Kanye West debuted his apparel line with Adidas Originals, Yeezy Season 1, continuing his persistent forays into the once-welcoming, now-reticent world of fashion design. In collaboration with the Italian artist Vanessa Beecroft, known predominantly for her half-naked tableaux vivant, West exhibited the largely unisex collection on rows of models standing emotionless in the harsh glare of spotlights and the harsher glare of the usual celebrities of dubious renown (Kim Kardashian, Justin Bieber, and so on).
The cerebral frisson that characterized Beecroft’s performances in her ’90s heyday, however, failed to electrify this offering, despite a democratic-sounding “solutions-based” approach, as West described it. (Others would probably describe it as Derelicte, à la Zoolander.) The shoes may find a modicum of success, but the ultimate conclusion here is: design still matters.
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