To the blistering sound of Koudlam’s Negative Creep, Kris Van Assche’s urban warriors stomped down the runway at high speed. At first glance, the collection felt more dressed up than usual, with a proliferation of suiting and the ubiquitous pinstripes that have made a tremendous comeback for fall. But, as is often the case at Van Assche, things weren’t what they seemed. His chalk stripe was hyper-real, and suit collars sported polo-shirt trims, while overcoats had curious pocket details.

A camouflage pattern, echoing the autumnal leaves littering the runway, was particularly successful, enlarged to emphasize its presence rather than disguise the wearer. He also used the individual camouflage sections as collaged pieces on suits, coats, shirts, and jackets to great effect, referencing technical bike wear. In the show notes, he said he wanted the collection to have a new wave, post-punk attitude. His warrior fighting for his place in the city, weaving in and out of traffic on his bike, was a perfect analogy for today’s fashion-conscious city man.