Kim Jones, artistic director of Louis Vuitton men’s, wore his heart on his sleeve at the fall show, writing in the show notes, “I think Christopher Nemeth is the most important designer to come out of London alongside Vivienne Westwood.” In my own youth, I sold the late designer’s wares in a shop in London’s Covent Garden, and was immediately filled with nostalgia at the sight of the frayed rope prints. Indeed, they were as iconic as the Westwood squiggle in their heyday.
It was somewhat of a departure for Jones, who usually bases his collections around travel (to highlight the important bags at the luggage house). This was travel of a different sort, time travel, with a team of Nemeth’s circle on hand — his friends providing the music, Judy Blame on accessory duties, and the full cooperation of the Nemeth family. Of course, it was filled with the jaw-dropping attention to detail that we have come to expect from the Vuitton studios. Denim became needle-punched indigo cashmere and the rope print was re-imagined as laser-cut shearling. This is a collection that will undoubtedly sell itself, appealing to a broad range of clients, young and older.
With all of the rumors floating around that Jones may be leaving Vuitton menswear, the collection could have been interpreted as an ode to his roots, that yearning for home. Those London roots were evident, as Kate Moss bopped along in the front row to Soul 2 Soul’s Back to Life. Back to reality indeed.