Like anything romantic and dramatic, Haider Ackermann’s collections have occasionally dipped into syrupy, dreamy melancholy. For spring, however, he was in rare form, delivering a strong line-up almost entirely built on a cinched, taut waist. But instead of going overboard with the bosom, which a wasp waist usually implies, he kept the silhouette controlled, streamlined, and rational.

Jackets were the focus, allowing peplum to steal the show. The oft-neglected lower part of the jacket was by turns ruffled and stiff as they emerged from under sculptural belts. While silky, ethereal trains threatened to derail a couple of otherwise no-fuss looks, several varieties of le smoking in lilac and champagne hues stepped in to save the day. Leather made a laudable appearance as softened biker jackets, some with ruched sleeves, and as slick black patent pants, cutting a lean figure and proving that Ackermann can still dazzle when he wants to.