Call it modern crudism. For Loewe, a new gig following LVMH investment in his line JW Anderson, London designer Jonathan Anderson took deconstruction to its logical, paleo extreme. Unfinished scraps of leather and suede, the Spanish house’s specialty, in oblong natural shapes — i.e. pre-tanned hides — were patched together to create dresses that wouldn’t look out of place on a cavewoman.
While there were fantastic sharp-cut leather pants and polite pastoral prints across tops, the emphasis was on an almost Fauvist, anti-luxury luxury. One irregularly cut remnant of fabric was simply tied to the model’s front with twine, while knits were made from raw silk and had a homespun quality. If you didn’t know any better, you might think Anderson was making a mockery of artisanal craftsmanship, but he’s much too polite to do that. For his first collection for Loewe, it seems he just wanted to start from scratch.