“You will now listen to my voice. My voice will help you and guide you still deeper. Every time you hear my voice, with every word and every number, you will enter into a still deeper layer…,” the narrator from Lars Von Trier’s masterpiece Europa introduced the show, and echoed the sentiment of Yang Li himself. After only a few years, he has established himself as a fixture on the Paris schedule, drawing all of the big editors, a huge feat for a new designer in the fashion capital.
Li’s aesthetic is clear, with a 90s grunge-tinged hard edge that has become his own, reiterated in the music choice, which included Placebo’s ‘Without You I’m Nothing.’ He is evolving slowly, and all the better for it, growing in confidence, and molding his woman into the leather-clad creature he imagines her to be. Silk, too, was high on the agenda, appearing in multitudes of applications, most successful in large pleated sections, and in oversize sheer T-shirts worn over regular cotton tees — a very translatable look. An overall softening of his signature — gowns — gave us, in the words of one of the tees: “Nothing short of a total riot/Nothing short of a total war/Nothing short of total love.”