#SUPEREGO was the name given to the second part of Hood by Air’s spring collection. Part one was shown in designer Shayne Oliver’s native New York, in celebrated style, with the HBA family in full effect on the runway, manacled and one on crutches. There aren’t many young bloods on the hallowed Paris schedule, but today we had two. (Jacquemus, just before HBA, was the expected saccharine overdose, replete with an electro-disco soundtrack, parasols, and 60s stripes — very French.) Which meant that HBA was completely out of context and this worked to its huge advantage.
The venue was the iconic Montparnasse Tower, one of Paris’s tallest buildings, a fitting skyscraper for the New Yorkers. We were all crammed into elevators and buzzed up to the 28th floor, where we arrived in a disused office. It instantly felt like a downtown squat party, as we were paraded around the labyrinthine space, surrounded by the best views of Paris, enabling everyone to take a selfie with the Eiffel Tower.
Deconstructed sex appeal was on show, in the form of straps, cut-outs, zips, gender bending micro leather shorts, and lashes of pleats. The infamous HBA logo was bedazzled, and save for a few pieces, ominously omitted in favor of complicated outfits. Using what we can only assume was the detritus found in the abandoned workplace — office chairs, strip lights, broken desks — gave an unexpected sexy secretary vibe to the proceedings, as they sat overlooking Paris and indoctrinating a whole new gang of disciples into the HBA sect.