What the Tech: Wali Mohammed Barrech Spring 2015
The sensational, futuristic warriors in luscious Saga furs at Wali Mohammed Barrech’s show in February were clearly no fluke. For spring, shown this week at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the half-Croatian, half-Pakistani designer proved he’s one of the most exciting new talents working right now.
As with his last runway, covered with a bloody liquid, there was something ominous about the underground parking garage that served as the venue. In the middle of the low-ceilinged space was a car surrounded by a gasoline-like puddle. The models sauntered around it, wearing a subtly unisex wardrobe of tight short onesies — recalling spandex bike shorts — with enlarged computer prints, terrific utilitarian ponchos and jackets, and hospital-inspired blouses that closed in the back. His use of athletic tech fabrics and his primary color palette mixed with cybernetic grays had a resolutely modern vibe, as did what will undoubtedly rank as one of spring’s jaunty must-haves: platform flip flops.
Copenhagen is becoming a fantastic incubator of fresh talent (Astrid Andersen comes to mind). With this tour-de-force, the darkly handsome, polyglot alumnus of Antwerp’s Royal Academy should be given a bigger stage. Indeed, in a recent interview, he revealed he had Paris on his mind.