The sensational, futuristic warriors in luscious Saga furs at Wali Mohammed Barrech’s show in February were clearly no fluke. For spring, shown this week at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the half-Croatian, half-Pakistani designer proved he’s one of the most exciting new talents working right now.
As with his last runway, covered with a bloody liquid, there was something ominous about the underground parking garage that served as the venue. In the middle of the low-ceilinged space was a car surrounded by a gasoline-like puddle. The models sauntered around it, wearing a subtly unisex wardrobe of tight short onesies — recalling spandex bike shorts — with enlarged computer prints, terrific utilitarian ponchos and jackets, and hospital-inspired blouses that closed in the back. His use of athletic tech fabrics and his primary color palette mixed with cybernetic grays had a resolutely modern vibe, as did what will undoubtedly rank as one of spring’s jaunty must-haves: platform flip flops.
Copenhagen is becoming a fantastic incubator of fresh talent (Astrid Andersen comes to mind). With this tour-de-force, the darkly handsome, polyglot alumnus of Antwerp’s Royal Academy should be given a bigger stage. Indeed, in a recent interview, he revealed he had Paris on his mind.