The atmosphere in the Carreau du Temple was electric, with the front row again populated with Hedi Slimane’s bright young things, and just as many crosslegged on the floor in front of the front row. It set the tone perfectly for what he called, in the show notes, “Psych Rock’s new rising.”
A spectacular light installation pulsated and undulated like a glistening sun, before settling into a strongly checkered backdrop. It seemed we weren’t missing Glastonbury after all, as Slimane sent out 68 impeccable music festival-ready rock stars and their model girlfriends. The silhouette was uniformly svelte, with Jim Morrison-like gaucho hats and cowboy boots, and one model looked every bit the young Jimi Hendrix.
Slimane was in magical form, riffing on the classics of the psychedelic rock era, deftly applying couture-like touches with beading and metallic threads on ponchos and blankets, fringing and studs on leathers, and fully beaded exquisite evening jackets. The forms were beautifully cut, and unexpectedly on trend after so much this season has leaned towards a softer 70s feel. His unflinching love of music continues to inspire painfully cool, desirable pieces for the legions of Saint Laurent fans. The music was created by Mystic Braves exclusively, and was the perfect hazy psychedelic garage-rock soundtrack for the show, which feels more and more like a performance each season.
The cult of Saint Laurent is unstoppable, with retailers reportedly up almost 30%, and the mobs outside the venue are testament to the power of its allure. He is unwavering in his unique vision for the house, and the evolution this season was remarkable. Hedi, the ultimate fan, is creating the ultimate fan base.