Lost and Found: Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Spring 2015

The envelope that contained the invitation was an art in itself, a complex folded sheet with a still image from the movie Tokyo Story by Ozu Yasujiro inside. Yohji said on his Facebook page before the show: “Films don’t have to be always about drama… This is a story that could be summarized in just a few words.” The same could be said for the collection, and those few words were emblazoned in silver threads across the clothes: YOHJI YAMAMOTO, MADE IN JAPAN, and NO.1.

The silhouette was an assured steady evolution, with a dose of typical humor. The runway was splashed with yellow paint that the models dragged on the soles of their shoes up and down, gradually covering it in a yellowed mess. Prints were mandala-like and floral, with Americana on the agenda, soundtracked by the Boss himself, Bruce Springsteen. The big surprise came with a full denim section, beautifully washed in 70s blue tones, with bleached trompe l’oeil reparation marks. A full denim look with a denim cape was the highlight, showing Yohji can reinvent that most staple of fabrics and garments, and show it through his eyes.

The final exits were sun-bleached and dry-brushed, with posters pinned on the back of the jackets. Posters for missing pets, and missing people, the most potent was a photo of Yohji himself, proclaiming Perdu (Lost). Yohji was lost in his own world and that’s exactly where we love him most, with a singular vision that is so important in fashion right now.

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