Flowers and Pearls: Givenchy Men’s Spring 2015

A plane, one of men’s favorite toys, throned at the center of the circular runway that hosted Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy collection for next summer. The handsome 1964 aircraft (a Reims Cessna F172E), was a commission to the Dutch artist Paul Veroude, who spent more than a month dismantling the plane, painting its parts in black, and then suspending them on steel cables. This could actually serve as a metaphor for Riccardo Tisci’s approach at Givenchy: stylized masculine symbols.

This formula has allowed him to enter menswear history, as his carefully dosed mixture of sportswear and tailoring has now invaded the streets. Maybe he wanted to claim that territory, but there was a best-of feel to the collection — as is often the case at his men’s shows. The disciplined black tailoring he loves was made more graphic this season by contrasting white ties or collars, and Doc Martens-style boots laced up in white. His favorite hoodies were offered in a terrific sheer chiffon version. Athletic stripes left over from last season’s basketball fare adorned polo shirts and tank tops. Multi–pocket jackets alluded to the faint aviator theme. The expected hip-hop tinged testosterone was provided by prison caps worn by his almost robotic beefcakes (interestingly, Tisci never really went for the beard trend).

The all-over star print of the season looked like flecks from afar, but was actually flowers — gypsophila, to be precise. They made for a spectacular finale, pearlized and embroidered in a couture moment Monsieur himself would surely have approved.

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