Olivier Theyskens is leaving his artistic director role at Theory, reports WWD. The raven-haired Belgian joined the American sportswear brand in 2010 to design the Theyskens Theory capsule collection, which morphed into a permanent position designing the main Theory label. The resort 2015 collection will be the last for Theyskens, who says he plans to explore other creative interests. As that collection is expected to unveil any time, it would seem Theyskens is nearly out the door already.
Many had questioned how long the pair would last. What, they wondered, is the European couturier doing turning out middlebrow sportswear in the States? The answer, in part, seemed to be the laudatory press he consistently enjoyed, elevating his capabilities in the eyes of American execs. Despite his short four-year tenure at Rochas and his mere two at Nina Ricci, the media was nothing short of rhapsodic. So when, following Nina Ricci, the ensuing speculation failed to place him at another prestigious house, off to Theory’s technocratic oneness he went. Still kind, Suzy Menkes optimistically opined that “Mr. Theyskens may be able to express himself even better than when he was at couture’s giddy heights.”
To those with the liberty to say so, it was a testament to the heartless mercantilism of fashion that Theyskens deigned to churn out casual separates for a brand already associated with adulterating the Helmut Lang name. Perhaps now he can return to the kind of sartorial pleasure dome he originally envisioned and which is sorely lacking.