Jun Takahashi makes no secret of his love for early Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren, and all things punk. He published the Seditionaries book in 2005 with his friend and collaborator Hiroshi Fujiwara, detailing their collection of clothes from this era, and between them they have one of the biggest collections in the world. The opening look was reminiscent of the iconic Westwood i-D cover from 1987, featuring Sarah Stockbridge in a crown, but something felt darker. Takahashi’s girls certainly had the punk attitude, but wore it with red contact lenses — a ruby zombified stare.
The regal theme was overpowering with crowns crafted from braided hair, and riffs on ermine stoles. Scarves fell around the models like sashes, traveling in and out of the clothes, through carefully positioned slits, and draped like fine robes. A particularly successful play on this had the backs slashed from shoulder to shoulder with full scarf detail hanging from the back like a cape. There were moments of sportswear infiltrating midway, that felt off kilter with the rest of the show, but they were certainly very desirable separates, and sure to please the diehard Undercover fanbase.
The final section was stunning, with all of the models coming out through falling red glitter, to the soundtrack of Roman Polanski’s Rosemary’s Baby. This time the prints looked like porcelain serving dishes, and the clothes were cut in full circles, as if they could be stretched out to resemble giant dinner plates. Some of the girls carried strange glowing apples, daring us to take a bite. It made for a magical end to a fairytale-like beautiful show.