Opening with eye-catching, head-to-toe plum ensembles, David Koma’s fall collection was an assertive, quirky take on sophistication. His classic suede coats and knee-high boots were updated with a colorful twist, and his dirtyish bondage silhouette was infused with bandage details.

Mugler’s new designer, Koma seemed to make several allusions, at times evoking Saint Laurent, as well as a deconstructionist ethos à la Alexander Wang. Some recent trends were incorporated — the roll neck, cutouts, harness details, knee-high boots — and yet the woven panels across the busts and skirts, the shock-blue horsehair patches, and the waisted basque detail of his ‘skater’ look offered something entirely new.

At once bold and flirty, Koma’s outing did not under or overstate itself. Timeless monochrome tones were pierced with brazen blues and purples, and functional fabrics were interspersed with panels of racy leather and textured horsehair. Ultimately, the collection is as daring as it is wearable. Only three years after receiving the BFC Newgen Catwalk Sponsorship, the relative newbie to the London scene is already asserting himself as one of its most promising players.