Probably the most exciting brand to come from America in a while, Hood By Air has generated substantial buzz since its debut show in New York last March, bringing its progressive streetwear to a wide audience with its blurring of gender codes and musical genres (it’s as much hip hop as punk). Seizing his moment, Brooklyn-based designer Shayne Oliver entered the Paris arena this season, bringing much-needed energy to a rather lukewarm men’s week.

The presentation had a somewhat intimate feel, presented in the lushly cozy, two-room apartment of Scarlett Rouge (Michele Lamy’s daughter) overlooking the French parliament in the posh 7th arrondissement. Oliver’s models, including androgynous performance artist Boychild, slouched lasciviously on a sofa or a bed, sporting platform footwear and sophisticated urban pieces adorned with the increasingly iconic HBA logo. As smoke invaded the space and the speakers emitted loud club music, a louche atmosphere was created.

The designer himself was elusive, but his event exuded terminal hipness, and one left the venue with the conviction of having witnessed the beginning of a great fashion ride.