The invitation for this season’s Dior Homme show came with a limited-edition postcard showing a Lily of the Valley botanical illustration, designed by the Paris-based design powerhouse M/M, and a quote from Goethe: “Superstition is the poetry of life, so that it does not injure the poet to be superstitious.” Lily of the Valley was the buttonhole of choice for founder Christian Dior, and this season Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche gave us a beautifully fitting ode to the original homme Dior.
The Savile Row classic pinstripe suit favored by Monsieur Dior was reinterpreted, playing with the sizes and applications of the stripes on perfectly tailored pieces that presented a slightly kinder silhouette than usual, and the higher buttoning that has become so on-trend this season. Oversize polka dots from the tie and handkerchief featured on everything from suits to boots, and the good luck charms of the superstitious Monsieur were found hanging around the boys necks on fine chains in front of the ties.
The couture archives, too, were explored, and an abstract rose print reminiscent of a Christopher Wool painting collided with chalk-stripe wool to give us the most beautiful coat, surely one of the coats of the season. Van Assche’s personal fascination with utilitarian and military motifs were found on more casual pieces, and informed the washed indigo denim and khaki pieces, creating a harmonious balance between high end and workwear. It was undoubtedly one of Kris Van Assche’s finest moments at Dior Homme and a testament to the couturier himself.