Normally Maison Martin Margiela is synonymous with the avant-garde, but for its latest collection the label leaned conservative. Relax-fit suits and oversized coats were as crazy as the house got — though the suits were as flawless as anything on Savile Row.

The collection did produce a few bursts of pure ingenuity, such as a trenchcoat-meets-cape creation and playtime with distressed leather. Electric-blue parachute fabric was effectively used to redefine the classic parka and give it new bells and whistles. In fact, the outwear was so attention-worthy, one might overlook the finely tailored clothing underneath. After all, a white Inspector Gadget-esque tricky trench has the tendency to strike everything else from view.