The highly stylized basketball court that served as the venue for Riccardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy show — its lines traced with neon lights and its perimeter surrounded by a circular fence — didn’t exactly host a game. But it brought together luxury and sportswear, a match-up the Italian designer has been playing with ever since he started menswear in 2008, thus redefining the modern male wardrobe. He’s also just announced a collaboration with Nike.
This time the fusion of high and low produced enticing tailoring — particularly suits with looser pants — casually worn with sneakers, and a recurring basketball motif, adorning everything from sweaters to jackets and pants. The outerwear, too, was strong, particularly puffy down jackets embellished with metallic zippers.
Despite its merits, this graphic show seemed to be made with a now-familiar formula: clean tailoring, a key theme replicated throughout, hunky models (their faces veiled with fishnet this time), and underground techno music. These trademarks are more than valid, and most of the looks were user-friendly. And yet, one left the show longing for the spanking freshness and adventurousness that characterized Tisci’s early men’s shows.