We’ve become quite used to the ritualistic coffee that awaits us in the morning before a Kenzo show. This season they took it a step further by serving it in a mug that started out black, but upon contact with heat, changed color to reveal a KENZO logo and a distorted check pattern. This was just the beginning of their subtle illusion of a show today, and the precursor to the statement knit, which read: “There are things in life our eyes cannot see. Sometimes nature plays a trick. We imagine we are something other than what we truly are.”

Kenzo’s creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim appeared to be in a pensive mood, riffing on the aforementioned quote from David Lynch’s seminal TV series Twin Peaks. The set itself was a distorted town, complete with houses (although dissected), nighttime streetlights, a tarmac, and a single tree — a town where nothing was quite what it seemed. Jackets had lapels higher than usual, with oversize collars stretched out over the top of them, and shirt pockets were hidden inside with only stitches revealing their placement. Brooches, and embellishments were made from cogs and industrial pieces, hinting at the inner workings and darker side of normal.

The standout pieces came toward the end: moonlit night scenes appliquéd across knits, shirting, and coats, depicting a house with the lights on in the middle of the night. The collection was trickier than usual, and didn’t immediately reveal itself, though there were enough of the cult sweatshirts and knitwear to grab fans’ attention.