To the untrained eye, Julius’ fall presentation would be yet another monochromatic, goth-inspired collection. After all, the Japanese designer has churned out black or gray collections since 2001. But a closer inspection reveals designer Tatsuro Horikawa’s genius. His art project-turned-fashion line has evolved beautifully with age.

The latest adventure explored the intrinsic comfort value of black. Models were swaddled in puffy mufflers and knee-grazing down coats, over more form-fitting asymmetrical jackets paired with full-cut trousers. Other models wore all-consuming harem pants, the designer’s signature distressed knits, and restrictive leather jackets. And for those who don’t feel secure in baggy pants, Horikawa threw in a couple of skinnies.