For fall, Raf Simons could hardly have delivered a men’s collection more removed from his work at Dior. Not only did he return to his angsty roots with a skinny-leg and block-shoe silhouette — resembling Marvin theMartian, always an endearing look for men — but he also sampled iconic imagery from the solar system, to a soundtrack that included Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon. These alluring patches in the shape of planets, earth and the moon were the result of a collaboration with the American artist and his friend Sterling Ruby, who shares title credit.
The result was a stellar collection filled with of Ruby’s splattered-bleach effect that could have been read as the Milky Way; randomly placed pockets, zippers, and color strips orbiting each other in a loose collage; and other graphic abstractions pointing to restless teenage energy and curiosity. Bags came in two styles: a leather notebook and a strange, udder-shaped carryall. It’s a neither-here-nor-there formula that works well, and it exists a universe away from his fine-art vision for Dior.