In darkly sparkly style, Marc Jacobs bid adieu to Louis Vuitton with a stunning look back at his legacy. Promptly at 10 am, a large clock on the runway began ticking backwards as his models began to emerge on a dimly lit runway, first in tights scribbled with Stephen Sprouse graffiti, then 90s-fitting blue jeans with dangling keychains.

Slowly these denims — the only non-black color in an otherwise all-black collection — gave way to heavily bejeweled jackets ranging from tuxedo to biker, then to delicate lacy dresses dripping in more black costume jewelry, recalling Jacobs’ current obsession with Victorian dress. All the while, enormous feather headdresses were a nod to his longstanding collaboration with milliner Stephen Jones.

Jacobs dedicated the collection to the women who inspire him, from the usual suspects — Sofia Coppola, Liza Minnelli — to the barrier-busting Madonna and Cher. He also cited Busby Berkeley, the American choreographer who all but created the 1920s showgirl. Jacobs took his finale bow not in skorts or pajamas, his uniforms of late, but a full suit — a fitting farewell.