There’s always an element of athleticism in the collections of London wunderkind Thomas Tait. It’s no surprise since the Canadian designer can often be seen running around East London’s Hackney in Nikes and an oversized coat, a living embodiment of his label’s sports luxe aesthetic. It was clear, though, that this season his collection would be slightly more grown-up when he swapped the concrete venues he has so often showed in for a swanky townhouse a stone’s throw away from Buckingham Palace. Paper-thin nylon anoraks came in floor-sweeping silhouettes and his signature boxy jackets with elegant collars were paired with either loose-fitting pants or skirts. Elsewhere, the theme of lightness was emphasized by crimson, baby pink and chartreuse marabou feather trims on gray silk vests and dresses. It was a breakthrough for the designer, who was the youngest ever to graduate from the Central Saint Martins MA Womenswear course.
Lucas Nascimento has made a name for himself as the knitwear designer who makes knits that don’t look like knits. His technical capability is astonishing and this season he turned his hand to a collection inspired by the famous stills of Brigitte Bardot wearing nothing but a bath towel in Jean Luc Godard’s Le Mépris. A silk jacquard knit, imitating the terrycloth of a towel, took form in simple, wraparound dresses and tops that featured shoulder straps falling off for an undressed sensuality. Micro-fine silk pleats and floating inlay jacquards, inspired by shower curtains and doors, were made to look reminiscent of water itself, but in an elegant palette of yellow, orange, black and pale blue.