Erdem’s spring show was quite possibly the most beautiful of the London collections so far. Even before it started, posies of white hydrangea on every seat set a hauntingly emotive tone, as did a cellist and pianist playing Arvo Pärt’s Fratres.
The clothes were a masterclass in texture: floating chiffon capes, feathered sweatshirts, lace biker jackets, tulle dresses and duchesse satin panels, all in a palette of black and white, with sprinklings of pale violet and yellow embroidery on an organza bomber and a bustier jumpsuit with sheer trousers.
It was ethereal, slightly dark and definitely evocative of couture, in stark contrast to the industrial Kings Cross location and a gray concrete floor. The result was truly moving and poetic.